Output & Alignment

Aiming & Aligning the Output of your headlight retrofits is a very important step. A proper HID retrofit that’s done on your vehicle headlights doesn’t mean you won’t blind or annoy oncoming drivers – headlights need to be installed & aligned properly.

Properly retrofitted headlights should have a clean cutoff line with no hot spots, excessive glare or mis-aligned light. Their color flicker should also appear sharp & crisp when viewed at the proper height.

Correct Alignment Descrition

There are three dimensions to consider when adjusting headlights: Horizontal, Vertical & Rotational. The first two apply to all headlights (retrofitted or not), while the third aspect primarily relates to retrofits.

Horizontal alignment is the side-to-side adjustment when considering the output beam pattern. On an HID retrofit, this is very clearly defined as the cutoff step. If your headlights are adjusted too far to the left you will blind oncoming drivers.

Horizontal Alignment

Vertical alignment is the up-and-down adjustment when considering the output beam pattern. This is also referred to simply as the height adjustment. This is a critical adjustment as All drivers on the road can be blinded if done incorrectly.

Vertical Alignment

Rotational alignment is the measurement in degrees (often done visually) of the projectors cutoff lines in a circular field of range. This is particularly important to vehicles equipped with HID projectors; especially an HID retrofit setup. A difference of just 1-2 degrees can mean inches at the cutoff lines.

Rotational Alignment

Bad Rotation Information

The best way to align your headlights is to first start off with a large open area that contains a broad sided building & flat level parking ground. The less visual interruptions (cars, trees, signs etc.), the better. This will allow you to measure, adjust & properly aim your lights before a test drive.

Alignment Starting PointThe left (driver’s side) headlight is always used for measurements & aiming. This is the side that has the most capability to blind oncoming drivers.

The initial step is to pull the vehicle approximately 25 feet away from the side of your building.

Next, measure the height from the center of your Left projector(on the vehicle) to the ground & the height of the left side of the beam. Compare the two measurements. The end result you’re after is to have the beam on the wall be 2 inches lower than the height measurement of the projector.

So for example if your left (driver’s side) projector(on the vehicle) is 40 inches from the ground, you want the left side of the beam to measure up at 38 inches(on the wall). The right (passenger side) headlight is very simple to align next as it simply needs to be adjusted to the same height as the left (driver’s side) side.

As you pull farther back from the wall the two steps should “merge” into one step. If they overlap too much or don’t cover the gap in the center a slight horizontal adjustment may be needed.

Next up is a road test. On the road be aware of how the new lights are performing. Take note of the cars in front of you at around 30 to 40 feet on a fairly level road surface. On a typical automobile your lights should illuminate the back bumper and license plate area. If you are lighting up their rear & side view mirrors, your lights are aimed too high. If you are lighting up below their bumper & undercarriage, your lights are aimed too low.

The example picture shown here is of a vehicle retrofitted with S2000 projectors. They’ve had shield/color mods done to them and are using 4100K bulbs. Lots of exotic color flicker, very bright light output and no un-wanted glare or hot spots.S2000 4100k Output/Color Flicker

 

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