Before I ask my question, I'd like to say that I've asked posted this question to other car specific forums before to no avail. Also I've searched here for answers but cannot seem to find a definitive answer.
So here's my situation:
I have an e92 with bi-xenon headlights running on D1S bulbs and when I attempt to activate high-beams/flasher-- opening the flap to fully illuminate the housing (which I'm sure you all must already know)-- only my left headlight responds. Audibly, I can hear the left and also interestingly the right lights making a mechanical sound upon action. The D1S bulbs are working, ballast must be working, cables/wiring all seem in place... I really have no clue what's going on
Any insight on repairing this myself is very appreciated. Maybe even a nifty diagram of how this "opening-contraption" works?
Original plan was to use them on a Lexus with oem D4S ballasts, but the second bulb was dropped on concrete and it shattered. We decided to go with D2S ballasts and D2S bulbs instead of ordering a replacement D4S bulb because I had D2S immediately available and the bumper skin and car was already apart.
Asking $60 shipped
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- 10W Solar Panel
- 20A Charge Controller
- 12v 12aH SLA Battery
- 3x 3W(3 x 1W) Warm White LED Assembly
- 1x 1W Warm White LED Assembly
- Misc(Wire, Hardware, Switch, Aluminum Stock, etc)
Used some 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar laying around to use for a heatsink. I cut these to about 7" in length for 3x assemblies. Then used a scrap piece of angle aluminum for the single assembly. Each assembly mounted to the aluminum bar with thermal adhesive.
Mounted the assemblies to center of the rafters. Using some small nuts as spacers for some airflow across the heatsink. The single assembly is mounted below the upper shelves and above the lower shelf in the section I can use for an impromptu workbench if needed.
Filled junction box with dielectric grease and mounted the 10W solar panel to a piece 1/2" treated and painted white board. Hung by some 1/2" piping as close to true south as I could get. It is mounted there so it isn't shaded by the eve. I still concerned the four year old is going to chuck a ball at it but we'll talk about that haha.
Modified a blank for a 12V DC switch and voltage meter in a standard electrical box.
Charge Controller and battery mounted in corner. Midway between panel and switch.
Output shot just before dark.
Try to get some more output shots, but it is what it is. Overall very happy with the end result of the project and it was inexpensive. No more flashlight. Building is still in disarray as I just built the shelves prior to this project. Thanks for looking!
Since anyday oem is better i kind of getting inclined to get these. But Here are my queries though:-
1. Are these worth to get compared to my current combo? As usage and age of these is unknown.
2. My current setup is at 50w and i want that only so can these be boosted?
3.Anyone ever potted exactly these? If yes link pls?
4. Leave the ballast and only get these oem bulbs as they will be better alligned then my cnlight bulbs. But another concern to it is they are d4s and can these be used safely on dlt f5 via amp to d2s connector? Also my current combo gives 5000k output as these being already 4300k how much will they shift on 55w. Anything below 4000-4100k is strict no.
5. Dump the plan of oem and continue with current setup.